Una Pizza Napoletana (CLOSED 7/09)

Today, I braved the thunderstorms to travel over to the brand-new S'mac, home of 10 different varieties of homemade macaroni and cheese. Unfortunately for me, half of NYC had the same idea, and by the time I arrived, S'mac had actually run out of food. It was 6 p.m., and they would not reopen until 7. Crestfallen, I walked out of the shop. A few doors down, Una Pizza Napoletana was half-empty.

I'd always heard wonderful things about this little pizzeria, so I sat my cheese-craving self down. The room evoked simple, Old World charm, and the menu described mouth-watering ingredients such as San Marzano tomatoes, Southern Italian extra-virgin olive oil, and fresh buffalo mozzarella.

UPT offers only four pizzas: cheeseless tomato, tomato mozzarella, white pizza, and tomato cheese with cherry tomatoes. So, if you're looking for a ham pineapple shredded chicken affair (blasphemy!) this is not the place for you. But the ingredients are of such high quality, and the pizzas so lovingly and artfully prepared, that you won't miss a thing.

I ordered the Margherita (tomato mozzarella) and was struck by what an aromatic pizza it was. A tumble of moist fresh basil decorated the olive-oil drizzled center of the pizza. The dough was fresh, a bit tangy and only slightly charred. (Some famous pizzerias in town tend to over-blacken their crusts.) Chunks of tender buffalo mozzarella melted into rich, fluffy pillows over a simple, delicious tomato sauce. All of the components, delicious on their own, came together in a delectable synergy.

Yes, I will attempt to make another effort (or three) to sample S'mac. But if the lines are as long as those of Shake Shack, I'll just dine at my new favorite pizzeria.

Una Pizza Napoletana: 349 East 12th St., (212) 477-9950.

Ice Cream Season!

As the temperature approaches 90 degrees, you might be craving ice cream. Yesterday, I certainly was, and found myself at Whole Foods buying a pint of this and a pint of that. When I got home, I realized that I'd stumbled upon one of the most delicious ice creams in existence: Laloo's Goat's Milk Ice Cream. Whole Foods carries the Black Mission Fig, Deep Chocolate, Molasses Tipsycake and Vanilla Snowflake flavors. (I'm now on the lookout for Strawberry Darling: strawberries swirled in a balsamic vinegar reduction!)

The creamy, custardy Vanilla Snowflake was quite possibly the best vanilla ice cream I've ever eaten. (I enjoyed it with some Nairn's ginger biscuits and some ripe, plump California cherries.) Amazingly, I preferred the vanilla to the Deep Chocolate, which, although excellent, was slightly less rich than I expected.

The Molasses Tipsycake was a cinnamony, oatmeal-cookie-crumbled, raisin-studded affair. (Ben and Jerry's, eat your heart out!)

For those of you who aren't fond of the distinctive taste of goat's milk (I love it), Laloo's ice cream is quite mild.

A Transcendent Sandwich At Tost

Last night, I enjoyed an incredibly tasty sandwich at Tost Panini and Wine Bar. Normally, when I order panini, I opt for a version which includes melted cheese. (There are many such selections at Tost, including speck-Taleggio-pesto, mozzarella-tomato-basil, and chicken-Fontina-basil.) But for some reason, the sardine sandwich called to me - and what an amazing sandwich it turned out to be! Two sturdy, spicy mayo-moistened slices of grilled bread bookended a filling of slightly briny chopped sardines, capers, and tart roasted tomatoes. The bread was crisp and golden-brown, not overtoasted.

Besides panini, Tost offers bruschetta, salads, cured meats, cheeses, and sweets (lavender panna cotta, anyone?).

Tost Panini and Wine Bar: 427 7th Ave., Park Slope, (718) 965-1075.

Top-Of-The-Line Sushi in Port Washington

I just had a good feeling about Yamaguchi when I walked in. Elderly Japanese women were happily chatting at the sushi bar, and a couple waited for a table to empty. Also, the sign font was right. This may sound strange, but I avoid Japanese restaurants which use the "bamboo" font in their logos.

Soon, I realized that I had found a beloved neighborhood gem. (What a wonderful feeling that is.) I sat down at the sushi bar and ordered the sushi sashimi lunch. I also attempted to order a tempura appetizer, but the waitress dissuaded me, saying I'd be too full. She was right. I couldn't even finish all the crimson slivers of tuna sashimi, buttery yellowtail slabs, sesame-sprinkled cucumber rolls, shrimp, fluke, clam, egg and salmon. And this was just the lunch portion!

Yamaguchi is for the purist; you won't find any spicy mayonnaisey maki here, but you'll be totally fulfilled by the excellent quality of the fish.

Restaurant Yamaguchi: 63 Main St., Port Washington, LI (516) 883-3500. Worth the trip from Manhattan, just take the Port Washington line from Penn Station.

Just My Luck!

After reading this article about Amedei Chocolates, I immediately set about finding a way to order them! But alas... I just received this E-mail:

Dear Salli Vates:

Thank you very much for your recent order of Amedei chocolates. We hope you (or the recipient you have named) will deeply enjoy the tasting experience to come.

Extraordinary demand resulting from the recent publication of an article about Amedei from Food & Wine magazine on MSN.com has regrettably caused a temporary back-order situation which may delay your shipment.

We are taking the following steps to assure that everyone who may be affected by this receives his/her products as quickly as possible:

- We are shipping first to those who ordered on an expedited basis. Expedited orders will be processed first come, first served.

- We are shipping next to those who ordered with standard shipping, with preference to those who indicated at order time that the shipment is a gift.

- If your order value (before shipping and handling) is in excess of $50, we will upgrade you to expedited shipping at our expense.

We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause, and we deeply appreciate your patience while we work to accelerate the delivery your order.

Sincerely,

The Gourmet Services Team, Amedei US
Gourmet.Services@Amedei-US.com
www.Amedei-US.com

(sigh)

Brunch At Old Devil Moon

Long before Blue Smoke and Biscuit, there was Old Devil Moon - a small, Southern joint friendly to both meatophiles and vegetarians. For 14 years, Old Devil Moon has served one of the heartiest, reasonably-priced brunches in the city.

My companion and I took a friend with Southern roots there today - we thought he would appreciate the cheese grits. I agonized over my choice... would it be the huge Fisherman's breakfast (fried catfish, eggs, garlic greens, grits, a large fluffy biscuit with homemade wild blueberry and peach preserves), the McMoon egg, cheddar and meat (bacon, sausage or veggie sausage) sandwich with grits or homefries, or the truly formidable Hungry Man breakfast (3 eggs, a stack of corn or whole wheat pancakes, cheddar grits and choice of meat)?

My companion, in an attempt at healthful eating, ordered the greens, beans and grits - with no eggs! I finally decided on that huge, eggs-spilling-over-the-edges McMoon. Although this sandwich was quite tasty, the biscuit was burnt on top. However, the biscuit in our friend's Fisherman's Breakfast was just perfect.

Old Devil Moon is so (deservedly) popular that you must have your entire party present in order to be seated.

Old Devil Moon: 511 East 12th St., (212) 475-4357.

Sweets News

• Mon Repas, a shop featuring crepes, galettes, Callebaut-coated Belgian waffles and Liege caramelized sugar waffles, opens officially on Monday. If a regular-sized waffle is too much for you, you'll be able to buy a bag of minis. (50 West 8th St., (212) 254-0787.)
  
  
• The upcoming issue of Pastry Art & Design will include an article I wrote about the careers of today's pastry chefs. I interviewed eight chefs who are embarking on exciting new paths, opening dessert cafes, savory shops and more!

Sorrel

Sorrel's soothing, well-lit room sits at the end of a row of charming Brooklyn brownstones. I dream of living in one of those brownstones and indulging in Sorrel's $25 prix fixe every night. Even though I live nowhere near Prospect Heights, I know I'll be back to live the fantasy!

A recent meal at Sorrel was full of fresh spring vegetables. My friend and I began with the olive-oil drizzled white asparagus, which was livened up with olives and slivers of Parmgiano Reggiano, and the peppery chilled sweet corn soup. Then came the rich slices of Long Island duck in a sweetish orange sauce and lentils, and well-seared scallops over a tumble of corn and diced red peppers.

Although my friend isn't much of a dessert fan, she finished every last spoonful of her semisweet chocolate mousse. I opted for the slightly lighter orange-yogurt panna cotta, which was a refreshing, citrusy end to a delightful meal.

Sorrel: 605 Carlton Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 622-1190.

Attention All Literary-Minded Foodies!

Newly-launched Alimentum Journal is presenting a special reading at the Mercantile Library (17 East 47th St.) on May 22nd at 6:30 pm. And if your interest lies in reading rather than eating, there will be an appetizer-and-wine reception afterwards. Call (212) 755-6710 for more information.

Tempo (CLOSED 5/09 - how sad!)

Amazingly, many of Tempo's tables stood empty on Sunday night. (In contrast, the far inferior Aunt Suzie's boasted a line out the door.) Fortunately, I was able to enlarge my party to four without any reservation trouble.

Despite a few minor service issues, we all greatly enjoyed our meals. I reveled in the special appetizer: a large hunk of creamy burrata topped with a blanket of black olive tapenade.

My pan-seared black sea bass on a bed of arugula was expertly prepared, if slightly less notable than my friends' entrees, which consisted of: the outstanding tagliatelle trifolata - a tumble of hand-cut noodles in a luxuriant, rich mushroom sauce (I had a serious case of dinner envy there!), a roasted whole orata, which was served with a tableside drizzle of blood orange olive oil, and Arctic char with English peas, mint and Meyer lemon-buttered gnocchi. (We also ordered the chick pea fries, which, if not quite as light as Nice Matin's panelles, were very satisfying with their lemony mayonnaise. The chick pea fritter also makes an appearance in a sandwich at next door's Tempo Presto.)

For once I regretted my habitual chocolate dessert choice; I found myself chipping away at my friend's ricotta cheesecake with rhubarb compote. Still, I enjoyed the rich, multi-layered Brooklyn blackout cake, if I missed the advertised mocha whipped cream. I would love to make a repeat visit to Tempo; next time I might order differently. (One question... will the still-standing "Cucina Way" sign on 5th Avenue be replaced by one that reads "Tempo Way?")

Tempo: 256 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 636-2020.

Bad News For Coffee Achievers

Apparently, Wolfgang Puck's futuristic self-heating lattes are already a thing of the past.

Chiyono

I'd been meeting to visit this Japanese home-cooking spot for ages, but I kept forgetting the address. For some reason, it never registered with me that the restaurant was right by the prominent Mara's Homemade. Tonight, I walked by Mara's Arkansas barbeque ad and right into lovely little Chiyono.

A large vase of cherry blossoms decorated the long communal wooden table. (Chiyono pays special attention to the seasons; fried oysters are only available in winter, and fried eggplant in summer.) Since I had arrived between the hours of 5 and 6 p.m., the omakase (special multi-course meal) was still available. But at Chiyono, the omakase is not a special plate of sushi and sashimi; it is a dinner set of three appetizers, burdock soup, a choice of yuzu miso salmon or a fried sardine croquette, special rice, and dessert of the day. Since I have quite a large appetite, I ordered this special meal.

The set of three vegetable appetizers included a julienne of carrots and burdock in hot sesame oil, two chunks of Japanese eggplant, and a wonderful rendition of hijiki edamame salad, neither too sweet nor too vinegary. A well-peppered potato-burdock soup arrived afterwards.

Then, a plate of two large, miso-glazed, citrus-spiked salmon steaks arrived with a side of Japanese potato salad. Interestingly, the salad included golden raisins among the usual onions and cucumbers. I was also served a bowl of seasoned white rice; dried plums provided a smoky saltiness, and there were also sesame seeds and slivers of licorice-like shiso. I was amazed that the slightest sprinkling of these ingredients made the rice so flavorful.

The special dessert celebrated spring. Small preserved cherry blossoms had been baked into the green mugwort "chiffon" pound cake. A subtle sesame pudding, a spoonful of sweet azuki beans, a dollop of whipped cream and some sliced strawberries and apples completed the sweet. I also enjoyed the accompanying cup of roasted rice tea.

Towards the end of the meal, Chiyono herself came over to my table and talked about the special ingredients she cooks with. I was delighted to have made such a charming acquaintance and will certainly be back soon.

Chiyono: 328 East 6th St., (212) 673-3984.

A New Chocolatier In Town!

I never had the chance to dine at Zakuro before it closed, but I'm aflush with excitement about what's planned for the space it occupied. Max Brenner Chocolates, which used to operate the most wonderful chocolate bar at Harrod's, opens at 141 2nd Ave. on July 1. Another location, at 841 Broadway, will be opening on June 1. If my memory serves me well, Max Brenner will give ABC's Michel Cluizel Cafe a run for its money.


Max Brenner: (212) 896-3886.

Divine Frites At Cafe D'Alsace

Every so often, I'll develop a craving for a food other than chocolate. Strangely, this morning I awoke with a desire for French fries. I'd read something about the truffled asiago frites at David Burke at Bloomingdales (59th & Lexington Ave.), so I thought I'd start there.

I can't say that the cafe was inviting. The narrow room was packed with tired shoppers, and I was shunted to an uncomfortable stool by the window. I got hold of a harried waiter and ordered the fabled frites. When they arrived, they were cold and soggy. The truffle oil was a nice touch, but the shredded asiago was dry and cold, and the frites weren't well-salted. I didn't finish them (which is saying a lot).

This evening, I had another chance to satisfy my craving, and the second time was the charm. I took Grandma and Auntie over to the six-week-old Cafe D'Alsace, which is the first Upper East Side outpost of the French mini-empire which includes Nice Matin and Pigalle. (How perfect is it that the Alsatian restaurant landed in Yorkville?) I asked for the pommes frites (along with a Riesling-cream-sauced grilled brook trout garnished with white grapes and diced tomatoes) and they arrived piping hot, well-salted, golden-brown-crunchy and soft on the inside. Wonderful!

Cafe D'Alsace: 1695 2nd Ave., (212) 722-5133.

Barbounia

"How on earth did they get this octopus so tender?" I marveled. "It's blanched three times and then fire-grilled," said our waiter. The charred octopus appetizer, which also featured crunchy crystallized lemon zest, yellow grape tomatoes and fava beans, was the highlight of my meal at Barbounia.

I'd originally intended to try the restaurant's namesake appetizer (crispy barbounia), but due to weather conditions, the shipments of the little mullet had not arrived. So, in addition to the octopus, my companion and I ordered a picnic of starters: a board of sweet Italian salami with a tin of cornichons, and the trio of cheeses: olive-oil drizzled Parmesan and Taleggio with a terrine of pesto-topped ricotta. Oval cherry toasts, a branch of red grapes and some fig chutney accompanied the cheese. I wanted to order another serving and bring it to Central Park!

While we enjoyed the cheese, we sipped Abando Crianza, one of the excellent selections from the 20-page wine menu. (There was a rather long wait for the entree as the restaurant became increasingly full.) We shared the grilled dourade, which was crispy-skinned and redolent of thyme. Our sides were the herbed sunchokes and the creamy mascarpone polenta (yes, it's as good as it sounds).

Even though the cheese board was so dessertlike, we still ordered the special Moroccan chocolate pudding. This chocolate-cinnamon mousse was so dense that I could've eaten it with a knife and fork! It was topped with a healthy layer of whipped cream and served with churros. The fried donuts were not crunchy at all, but feather-light.

Barbounia: 250 Park Ave. South, (212) 995-0242.

Cha-An

Many restaurants stop serving lunch around 2:30 p.m. Often, I'll neglect to check my watch and then walk around in a hungry haze, wishing I hadn't missed the cut-off. Fortunately, I now have a trusty standby for those hours between lunch and dinner: Cha-An.

The menu is limited at this Japanese teahouse, but there's a wonderful lunch set (the "B") with changing selections. Today, the B included: two jumbo shrimp in a gelatinous spicy ginger-chili sauce, a tiny slice of quiche, crunchy hunks of bamboo shoot with caramelized onions, creamy seafood chowder with tomatoes, onions and shiitakes, tea-smoked salmon slices under a refreshing shredded radish and sprout salad, 15-grain rice, and finally, chocolate cake with mousse, cherries and vanilla ice cream. All of this was accompanied by a pot of my favorite Japanese tea, genmaicha!

Cha-An: 230 East 9th St., 2nd Floor, (212) 228-8030.

Find Friends Through Chocolate!

Clay Gordon (of Chocophile fame) is now hosting regular meetups at which like-palated people indulge in fine chocolates. But if you're not in the New York area, don't despair... chocolate lovers are everywhere!

Gribouille Patisserie Traditionelle (CLOSED)

"We printed out 100 take-out menus this morning, but they're already gone," said Timothy, the Parisian owner of the two-week-old Gribouille. I'm gratified at the instant popularity of this wonderul bakery-cafe! Among its many offerings are: quiche Lorraine both with and without bacon, Petrossian salmon sandwiches on fresh-baked brioche, organic omelettes, chocolate or coffee eclairs, lemon tarts, and delectable meringue-topped chocolate cupcakes. (Don't forget to ask for a "carte de fidelite" - once you've bought 10 pastries, they give you one free!) Timothy told me that he loves having his own cafe because he can serve all of his favorite foods. (They will likely become your favorites too.)

Gribouille Patisserie Traditionelle: 2 Hope St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 384-3100.

Fresh-Baked Cookies...

...and performance art. Where might you find this juxtaposition? At PS1 Contemporary Art Center (22-25 Jackson Ave, LIC, Queens) this Sunday, April 9th from 3-6 p.m. The Scratch 'n Sniff Duo will be baking cookies while mixing live beats and sounds to celebrate the opening of PS1's "Reprocessing Reality" exhibit. Admission is free, and the cookies are as well.

Bouchon Bakery Snafu

As someone who hasn't yet scored a reservation at Per Se (I'm not very persistent), I was thrilled about the recent opening of Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery. However, my first experience was disappointing, and not because of the pastries (which were excellent).
I stepped out of the elevator, and there across from the A/X store was a display of the most exquisite danishes and tarts. Being in a comfort-food mood, I skipped over the beautiful mille-feuille napoleons and, in quick succession, ordered two vegetable jardiniere sandwiches, one giant chocolate-chip cookie, a TKO (buttercream Oreo) cookie, two "bouchons" (slightly-bigger-than-bite-sized brownies), a tuna Nicoise on ciabatta, an Illy cappuccino and finally, a beribboned bag of the aforementioned bouchons (I thought my grandmother might like them).

After browsing at Borders, I subwayed home and prepared to enjoy one of the jardinnieres, which had been advertised as containing sweet piquillo peppers. To my dismay, I realized that the bag was missing several important items. The two vegetable sandwiches were absent, but in a far greater tragedy for a chocolate-lover, the bag of bouchons was missing!

Morosely, I munched on my (terrific, olive-heavy) tuna Nicoise as I pondered whether I should call the bakery to try to claim the missing edibles. I'd paid in cash and hadn't kept my receipt.

There was no direct line to the bakery, just a voice recording, so I left a message for the cafe manager. She called back almost immediately and apologized, saying that if I returned, she would make sure that I received the sandwiches and "something extra for my trouble." By this time, the cafe was about to close, so I'd have to wait at least a day.

After one taste of the bouchon (meltingly chocolatey even at room temperature) I realized that I must return as soon as possible. The next day, I went back to the bakery, but the manager I had spoken with was not there! I explained my predicament to the slightly suspicious cafe personnel, and they packed up a bag of sandwiches, gherkins and bouchons for me.

Bouchon Bakery is definitely worth a second visit, no matter what the reason!

Bouchon Bakery: Shops at Columbus Circle, 3rd Floor, (212) 823-9366.

No. 28

Many shed a tear at the shuttering of Grilled Cheese NYC. But today, I tasted the Italian equivalent of the best grilled cheese sandwich ever. No. 28, an authentic Neopolitan brick-oven pizza joint, serves a sumptuous 3-cheese piadina which outshines anything I ever ate at Grilled Cheese. The big round flatbread is alternately crispy and chewy, and it's stuffed with a perfect blend of melty Mozzarella, smoky Provolone and a hint of spicy Gorgonzola. Pure heaven.

(For those who are interested, No. 28 also happens to be the default neighborhood hangout for fans of international soccer. The restaurant's lights brighten during the commercials and are dimmed during the game.)

No. 28: 28 Carmine St., (212) 463-9653.

Blossom

I'm always curious about a new vegan restaurant, but I'm less than enamored of Gobo and Zen Palate. Eternally hopeful, I enlisted the palate of a vegetarian friend and we made a visit to Blossom last night.

The wine list was expensive; I didn't notice a glass for under $10. We decided to conserve our cash for the edibles, which looked promising. The appetizer menu included a "South Asian lumpia" and phyllo-wrapped vegetables with tomato confit. My friend ordered the satay, which consisted of a tumble of sesame noodles topped with two skewers of grilled seitan in lieu of meat. Although the flavor of the grill was not apparent, the texture of the seitan was similar to that of meat, if a bit chewier.

As there was obviously no cheese in the salads, the chef had been creative with tempeh and tofu to approximate its salty, pungent flavor. In my friend's salad of field greens, grilled pears and candied walnuts, the crispy tofu cubes served this purpose. My salad was a plate of baby spinach leaves coated with plenty of horseradish dressing, red onions, tempeh "croutons," pumpkin seeds, and sliced wild mushrooms.

I had thought about ordering the pumpkin gnocchi with melted leeks for my entree, but instead went with the seitan "medallions" in a caper sauce with herbed soft polenta and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was very garlicky and tasty, but the polenta was bland and not particularly herby. (I guess I'm one of those people who thinks that polenta needs butter and cheese.) The seitan adequately absorbed the light caper sauce (by itself, seitan is rather tasteless, being comprised of wheat gluten).

Although we had no room for dessert, I was sufficiently tempted by the dessert menu to visit Blossom again. (Pineapple crepes with coconut milk infusion, chocolate ganache torte, yum!)

Blossom: 187 9th Ave., (212) 627-1144.

Prem-On Thai and Sweet Melissa

It's never been a better time to be hungry on Houston Street, with the amazing lunch special at Prem-On Thai and the goodies at the nearby Sweet Melissa. (How did this branch of the Brooklyn bakery manage to escape my purview?)

I'd intended to lunch at the Le Pain Quotidien on West 8th, but every seat was taken by NYU. So, I walked over to Ushiwakamaru to see if they were open, but apparently they only serve dinner. Prem-On Thai next door, with its chic marble tables full of satisfied-seeming people, beckoned to me.

I was happy to see that Prem-On's lunch includes both an appetizer and an entree. For $7, I got two crunchy vermicelli-bean spring rolls and a delicious tofu curry with crispy and soft noodles. The egg noodles were a hidden treasure underneath the tofu, and all was smothered in a creamy coconut-turmeric sauce. Pickled greens and red onions provided a nice touch of sour and spice.

Although I toyed with the idea of ordering a trio of Thai creme brulee (lotus seed, Thai tea and ginger), I decided to be virtuous. That cause was lost the second I laid eyes on Sweet Melissa. What should I have, I wondered, and then came the more deviant thought: what shouldn't I have. I left with a Valrhona brownie, a Key lime tart decorated with sliced kiwi, one of the chocolate souffle cakes I remembered with such fondness from the Brooklyn store, a citrus chevre cheesecake and a dense chocolate peanut butter treat. So much for "no dessert!"

Prem-On Thai: 138 West Houston St., (212) 353-2338. Sweet Melissa (Manhattan): 75 West Houston St., (347) 594-2541.

Kanoyama

I made a happy discovery tonight at Kanoyama: the early-bird special. It includes such entrees as tempura don, salmon roe and sea urchin over rice, and eel over rice. I ordered the tekka don: rosy-pink slices of tuna blanketing perfectly vinegared sushi rice, accompanied by a romaine salad with mellow carrot-ginger dressing, two kinds of pickles, smoky bonito miso soup, sweet hijiki carrot salad, two slices of omelette sushi, and the Japanese version of potato salad (full of cucumbers and onions). All for $14!

Kanoyama: 175 2nd Ave., (212) 777-5266. The early-bird dinner is served until 7 p.m. on the weekdays and 8 p.m. on the weekends.

Cheeks Bakery (CLOSED)

Are you the sort of sweets lover who welcomes butter but abhors trans fats? If so, you'll be delighted by this new Williamsburg bakery. Open just 3 weeks, Cheeks Bakery sells delicious goods which are made exclusively with organic eggs and rBst-free milk. Owner Melanie explains, "If I always eat organic eggs myself, why shouldn't I also use them in products for my customers? It's the right thing to do." Melanie's passion for high quality ingredients is showcased in chocolate-banana bundt cakes, blackberry-buttermilk muffins, coconut cake with lime syrup, vanilla bean cheesecake, and for those who prefer the savory to the sweet, herb quiche!

Cheeks Bakery: 378 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn, 718-599-3583.

Po

Mario Batali may be long gone, but fans of the Italian home cooking that put him on the map are still flooding into Po. "Po is my favorite Italian restaurant in the city," says Brother Dominic, a Franciscan friar who has occupied a window seat for 10 years. "But you have to come for lunch; that's when Frank is here. He's the soul of the restaurant - he's been here from the beginning." Frank is the Croatian waiter whom the antipasto is named for. Not only is he stunningly efficient (I watched him easily dispatch a party of 17 without batting an eye), but he's hilarious.

"What is this, a cappuccino before lunch?" he laughs as he delivers my cavatelli with broccoli. "Is that a Maryland thing? Ah, they wouldn't even give it to you in France. IN FRANCE, they won't give you an iced tea - they look at the American like..." He then launches into a salty rant about the tipping habits of European natives by country. (No one fares very well.) By the time he's finished, I'm laughing so hard that I can barely eat. But I can taste enough to know that the cavatelli is deliciously chewy, and the broccoli is sauteed with plenty of garlic.

Brother Dominic and Frank commiserate about Batali's latest venture and how they've seen him on TV with Tony Danza ("Danza dyes his hair!" protests Brother Dominic). Steve, the original business partner, moseys in and makes himself a cappuccino. Frank pretends to tussle with him at the machine and yells, "Look at this, he can't even wait for a cappuccino!"

I finish a mint-flecked gelato covered with spiced nuts and go laughing into the snowy day.

Po: 31 Cornelia St., (212) 645-2189.

Sweets News

• Attention all Chikalicious Dessert Bar fans (and I know you're out there, because I could barely get a seat the other night!): On June 1, NYC's first dessert-only room will expand to thrice its size, moving to a larger site directly across the street. A back room will be available for private parties.



• Are you curious about how to pair chocolate with wine? Join Pastryscoop.com for a delicious lecture and tasting event at The French Culinary Institute on March 14th. There will be guest speakers from E. Guittard Chocolate Company and Baron Francois Wine. For more information, contact Pastryscoop.com at (646) 254-8542 or info@pastryscoop.com.



• You'll soon be able to purchase the world's first 100% organic lollipops.

Ravenous In Rhinebeck

Rhinebeck, a small village by the Hudson, boasts a disproportionate amount of gourmet delights. The Culinary Institute of America has a campus nearby, and some of the alumni stick around to feed the lucky natives. The influence of the school, combined with the wealth of local orchards and farms, ensures a delicious experience for miles around.

My companion took a one-day culinary survey of the town this past Saturday. We began at Terrapin Restaurant (37 Montgomery St., 845-876-3330), which is known for its inventive tapas and extensive wine selection. The creamy roasted garlic soup was zesty and soothing, and I greatly enjoyed a Fontina and onion quesadilla -its crisp flour tortilla oozed with cheese and was topped with a spoonful of salsa. (We felt that the macadamia-crusted calamari were somewhat less successful; the batter was reminiscent of what you would find around an onion ring, and the squid were chewy instead of tender.) We finished with a grilled Nutella sandwich and banana ice cream.

Next it was on to the Olde Hudson (6423 Montgomery St., 845-876-3933), a delightful little gourmet shop with barrels of olives and a variety of chocolates including those made by Jake Novick-Finder, a 14-year-old who trained in Paris and at NYC's own Chanterelle. The Jakery is the name of this precocious teen's truffle company (845-406-2796).

I was deeply impressed by Rhinebeck Health Foods (24 Garden St. 845-876-2005), which is not just for health nuts! In addition to bulk spices, organic pasta, and produce, the store features a wonderful imported cheese section (Mimolette, Fromage D'Affinois, etc.) and organic London Broil. The shop's casual Garden Street Cafe serves up a menu of soups, salads and wraps.

I imagine that no trip to Rhinebeck would be complete without a chewy white chocolate chip/dried apricot cookie at Samuel's of Rhinebeck, Inc. (42 East Market St., 888-726-8351). In addition to coffee and tea, Samuel's sells chocolate-covered plums, Sarabeth's preserves, and an enticing "Hot Fudge Sundae Cone" mix. Just open the "cone," heat up some cream with the chocolate powder, add to your favorite ice cream and sprinkle with the included chocolate chips and marshmallows.

The highlight of our day was a 4-course prix fixe dinner (at $55, a steal) in the Belvedere Mansion. CIA-trained chef Robert Mayerat presides over the French-inspired, constantly changing menu. We loved the shredded duck crostini served with a Brie souffle, the Stilton-crumbled arugula-frisee salad, the Alaskan salmon with shavings of black truffle and horseradish mashed potatoes, and especially the warm chocolate ganache cake accompanied by chocolate ice cream and crisp spun sugar.

If you'd like to experience your own day of deliciousness in Rhinebeck, the annual Taste of Rhinebeck will be held on Monday, March 20th! Call 845-871-3505 for more information.

5 Ninth

The Meatpacking District was uncharacteristically deserted on a chilly Monday night. As I sat down at 5 Ninth's rustic bar to wait for a friend, the bartender remarked that we'd have no problem finding a table. Indeed, for the first 30 minutes of our meal, we had the intimate, votive-lit restaurant all to ourselves. Then, the room slowly filled with regulars and excited initiates. (Next to us was a couple so enthralled with the menu that they ordered enough appetizers for 4 people.)

5 Ninth's Asian-influenced menu makes much use of pork. There are entrees of pork ribs and pork shoulder, two roast pork sandwiches, and a Berkshire pork belly appetizer. The menu also emphasizes sweet flavors such as Szechuan caramel, palm sugar chili paste and Vietnamese mint. We were also to discover a penchant for spice. The Italian bread was accompanied by chili dipping oil. Slices of green chilis fired up my yellowtail sashimi appetizer, and a whole red chili arrived with the Berkshire pork belly. The sweet-glazed, luscious slabs of pork lay atop a pile of garlicky, spicy long beans. The waiter advised us to punctuate a bite of pork with a bite of chili, and to then cool down the palate with a sticky rice cake.

Hot spices have an amazing ability to stimulate the appetite, so we were quite ready for the butter-and-sriracha-braised Jamison Farm lamb in chili lamb jus with gingered Chinese broccoli and crispy fried rice cakes, and the seared bass with pickled garlic, Japanese mushrooms and greens. The bass's skin was nicely crisp, but the portion was a bit small for me, so I needed to order a side of jasmine rice. (Sticky rice is also available.) Actually, I would've liked a whole order of the delectable rice cakes!

My friend doesn't have much of a sweet tooth, so she abstained from dessert, instead ordering a glass of Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner. (My sweet tooth is enough for two, anyway.) Desserts included banana spring rolls and carrot spice cake; I chose the fresh doughnuts with hot chocolate and coconut sorbet. The four sugar-sprinkled, golden-brown doughnuts were heaped into a small white bowl. I rolled the hot fried globes around with my fork to catch all the excess sugar. Although the waiter recommended that I dip the doughnuts in the hot chocolate, I really preferred them on their own!

A small boy ran upstairs into the dining room. (I wanted to offer him a doughnut.) "Hudson, come here," called his mother. Has the Meatpacking District has become so trendy that people are naming their kids after its streets?

5 Ninth: 5 Ninth Ave., (surprised?) (212) 929-9460.

Pizza Freebies

Walking down a Williamsburg street, I caught sight of a large sign advertising free pizza. It turns out that although there is a catch, it's quite a small one! A pizza enthusiast has only to purchase one alcoholic beverage at Capone's Bar and he will be plied with an entire pie. What a deal!

I haven't yet been to Capone's, but I'm a huge fan of Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza & Penne, which offers its own unique freebie: complimentary anchovies. I'm aware that the appeal of anchovies is not universal, but who can resist a sweet and hot sausage pie with roasted peppers?

Capone's Bar: 221 North 9th St., Williamsburg, (718) 599-4044. Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza & Penne, 800 Sixth Ave., (212) 213-5081.

Supercore Cafe

After hearing the ominous weather forecast, I calculated how much time I had left before the estimated arrival of the snowstorm and headed out for one last restaurant fix. I just wanted a simple lunch, but I craved a hot drink - cider, or a cappuccino, or a hot chocolate.

I ended up with a perfect green tea latte at Supercore Cafe. Supercore is a comfy cafe/bar where you can linger over a book, surf the Web or share drinks and tapas. The decor is typical '70s Williamsburg with a bit of Japan thrown in. The cuisine lies somewhere at the intersect between Japanese homestyle and gourmet diner. Olives, goat cheese, edamame and dried squid are advertised on the tapas blackboard.

Supercore's reasonably-priced menu includes panini, beef curry, donburi, baked creamy parmesan penne, egg salad on a croissant, meatballs and pasta, and nikujaga. You can accompany your meal with either focaccia and salad, or rice and spinach. I ordered the marinated ginger-and-radish-topped mackerel ($6.50), of which there were three moist slabs. My spinach was smothered in sesame sauce, and there was a nice portion of seaweed-sprinkled white rice. And the latte was terrific. The sweet, creamy drink came in a cavernous mug which I could lift with both hands. When I took a sip, I was surprised by earthy, grassy green tea instead of the sharp taste of coffee.

I meant to order a warm chocolate cake, but when I looked out the window, I saw the first snowflakes begin to fall. And there was the bus: perfect timing.

Supercore Cafe: 305 Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, (718) 302-1629.

A New Definition For "Blind Date"

Here's a way to make sure your Valentine's date isn't checking out the competition: blindfold him! Where can you do this without attracting the attention of everyone in the room? At CAMAJE Bistro, which is hosting a 4-course Valentine's Day meal with mandatory blindfolds for all diners. According to the bistro's publicist, this concept originated in Germany, where there apparently exists a pitch-black restaurant. Is this a case of the blind feeding the blind?

CAMAJE Bistro: 85 MacDougal St., (212) 673-8184.

Organic Ecuadorian Arriba Cocoa Nib Brownies

I have a secret. Within the recesses of my refrigerator, there is a box of Arriba Nib brownies from Vosges Haut-Chocolat. Apparently, the cocoa nibs are redolent of jasmine and orange blossoms. I bought this box of brownies as a Valentine's Day gift, and it's going to be a very long six days until February 14 - how can I restrain myself from opening the box? Vosges was sold out of the individual brownies, so I couldn't buy one to try for myself.

Vosges Haut-Chocolat: 132 Spring St., (212) 625.2929.

An Out-Of-Season Craving, Satisfied

It may be the middle of winter, but you can still sink your teeth into a popular summer specialty: zucchini blossoms. Novita's Marco Fregonese religiously imports the little green gems from Israel, and then stuffs them with creamy bufala ricotta. The rich, slightly warmed cheese oozes out when you fork apart one of the lightly fried blossoms, which are served on a slice of prosciutto and a salad dressed with mustard vinaigrette.

Novita: 102 East 22nd St., (212) 677-2222.

Via Quadronno

Via Quadronno is one of my favorite cafes in the city. During the summertime, I often avail myself of the outdoor gelato cart; on a rainy day, I'll sit in the window with a cappuccino. Today, I decided to introduce my Italian-food-loving (well, all-food-loving) grandmother to Via Quadronno. (One of the great things about dining with her is that she always wants me to try what she orders.)

We arrived just before the noon lunch rush, which was lucky - a line of people soon stretched down the length of the restaurant. As we settled in our well-cushioned wooden banquettes, I began reading the menu to my grandmother, because she refuses to wear glasses. Via Quadronno specializes in Italian sandwiches: single-ingredient (mortadella, pancetta, salame) on French bread, open-faced tartines on thinly sliced brioche toast (white truffles and Fontina, bottarga, tuna and artichoke), and special Milanese panini with up to six ingredients. There are also many types of bruschetta and crostini (this place is bread heaven!), as well as salads, carpaccio, meat lasagna and a daily risotto and pasta.

I decided that the tartini would be just perfect for my grandmother, as they are rather small. She would've been overwhelmed by the smoked ham, goat, Camembert, fontina tomato, tabasco sandwich. Her choice was the open-faced jumbo lump crabmeat, and I went for the salmon roe. However, I knew I needed something in addition, and debated for a while over the swordfish carpaccio and the minestrone. The waiter made my decision: soup of the day. I munched on garlic bread and dipped it in the rich vegetable puree while my grandmother told stories about the much-missed 2nd Avenue Deli - a sandwich heaven of a quite different ilk.

Although the tartini were small, they did not skimp on sweet crabmeat or a blanket of sparkling fresh salmon roe. "Try mine!" urged my grandmother. I obliged.

Soon it was time for dessert and a fabulous Antica Tostatura Triestina cappuccino. "How's the tiramisu?" I asked the waiter. "It's the BEST in the CITY!" Once again, he made my decision.

Generally, I tend to be rather particular about tiramisu. I'm suspicious of parfait presentations, or tiramisu in a pie. I'm not fond of extraneous drizzles of raspberry and chocolate syrup. And nothing causes my heart to sink like the presence of whipped cream rather than mascarpone. But I knew we were in good hands here.

And indeed the dessert was perfection. A nicely freeform square of tiramisu was plush with lightly sweetened, creamy mascarpone. Its layers of ladyfingers were neither sodden nor too crisp, and there was just a hint of Marsala. I was surprised at how fast my grandmother finished it!

Via Quadronno: 25 East 73rd St., (212) 650-9880.

Cooking with Etsuko

Last weekend, I embarked upon a survey of Japanese ingredients at Mitsuwa Marketplace. Today, I learned about the uses for those ingredients at Etsuko Kizawa's Basic Japanese Home Cooking class. Etsuko, owner of Soy NYC, teaches a variety of classes in Soy's shoebox kitchen, and the students get to eat the delicious results.

Our lesson covered the preparation of miso soup, rice, oshitashi (a spinach dish) and sake-simmered cod. While expertly preparing the meal, Etsuko took the time to give us a primer on miso (dark red goes with clams, red is Tokyo-style and white is more common in Osaka). She spoke of adding different vegetable combinations to a simple miso soup: daikon and watercress, or potato and mushroom.

As she gathered the ingredients for the oshitashi sauce, she talked a bit about cooking implements. She mentioned the importance of her prized miso scoop and special tweezers for removing small fish bones. A giant pair of chopsticks was used to plunge the oshitashi spinach into ice-cold water.

We learned how to make the fluffiest short-grain rice (Etsuko prefers the pot to the rice cooker). We were also told of the affinity that soy sauce has for citrus, ginger's amazing ability to mask a particularly fishy flavor, and the use of sugar in Japanese cuisine. The aromas of delicious home cooking began to fill the kitchen, and my stomach started to growl. Etsuko covered the simmering cod with wax paper and showed us how the sweet sauce was bubbling underneath.

Not a moment too soon, it was time to eat. Soup was placed on the right, rice on our left (this was traditional, we found) with the fish and vegetables farthest from us.
As we ate with gusto, Etsuko recounted some of her latest experiments. Apparently her green tea Rice Krispie treats have become quite a hit, with customers bringing them to Japan by the batch. I can personally vouch for these treats!

Soy NYC: 102 Suffolk St., (212) 253-1158.

Gilt

I was recently asked if I were familiar with "molecular gastronomy." Although I was vaguely aware of the culinary experiments of Ferran Adria and Grant Achatz, I'd never eaten the fruits (and meats) of their labors.

My interest was piqued, and I began searching for articles about this culinary science. Apparently, some chefs are stretching food preparation to the outer limits of possibility. Armed with new technical knowledge and a desire to push the papillote, they're creating a whole new world of cuisine.

Tonight, my companion and I made a pilgrimage to New York's new shrine to molecular gastronomy: Gilt. We didn't know quite what to expect when we walked through the doors of what used to be Le Cirque 2000. (We'd imagined that the cuisine of 3000 would be housed in a structure more like this.)

However, Chef Paul Liebrandt's powerful imagination soon engulfed us to the point where we no longer noticed the decor. His cuisine naturally lends itself to metaphor; I found myself commenting that we were eating snowflakes - intricate works of art which melted in our mouths.

Gilt's menu includes "Classical" and "Modern" prix fixe selections (there's also a separate daily tasting menu). One may choose appetizers and entrees from either list. (I went with a classical appetizer and a modern entree.)

After ordering some Pinot Grigio (the cocktail prices made us wonder if the restaurant should've been named Guilt, or Gelt), we were served our first amuse-bouche: a spoonful of sprouts atop a heap of shredded filo, some arugula financiers with an internal surprise of melted Stilton, black truffle discs filled with red onion chutney, and dried beet curls with sour salt. The financiers included a sweet pear-raisin chutney that was just wonderful with the Stilton.

We were then delighted by a second round: artichoke foam with a hidden egg and crispy black trumpet mushrooms in a charmingly askew cup, smoky crimson venison carpaccio, scallop tortellini in a heady marine broth with pea shoots, and a disc of chicken accented with fennel. Each dish was a small universe of flavor, color and texture. I was reminded of chawan mushi, a Japanese egg custard which holds little surprises the farther one's spoon travels.

And then, the bread! How were we to choose from this selection of hot rolls: olive, Serrano, potato, sweet chestnut, and flaky brioche? Naturally, we each had about three of them. Two different butters arrived on stone slabs: unsalted L'Escure and salted English butter.

Then, we were treated to a stimulating palate-cleanser. A mother-of-pearl shell was the setting for a scoop of wasabi-sprinkled apple sorbet in a few drops of precious Armando Manni olive oil. Our appetites thus stoked, we were ready for our appetizers.

Although I'd been tempted by the porcini crumble with baby turnips, I'd ordered the butternut squash soup. Foam was poured on top of curried orange foam, a shard of Parmesan, crisp sage leaves and a few delectable Parmesan tortellini. My companion went modern, choosing the "flavors of winter." Of these five dishes, most memorable for me was the purple baby abalone jelly. There was also a crab cake underneath a gelee into which herbs were suspended and a plate of sweetbreads.

Another round of bread, and we were ready for our entrees. Each of them was a sort of themed fantasy: my companion's theme was beet, and mine was coriander. Beet puree surrounded thick slices of rich Peking duck and leaves of crispy red chard. (We were constantly amazed at the Liebrandt's ability to keep thinly sliced vegetables perfectly crispy in a soup or sauce.) More beets, served steaming from plastic wrap, accompanied the duck. My loup de mer had a crown of sweet coriander "glass," and underneath the fish I discovered a profusion of snow peas, pearl onions, Thai basil and tiny black squid-ink gnocchi. My side dish was a coriander fish stew; razor clams, large sweet shrimp and starlike baby squid sat in a broth with sea beans and tiny potatoes.

Dessert was just as elaborate. First, there was another amuse-bouche: clementine sections and lychee sorbet amid a smattering of crunchy orange cookie pellets, mint leaves and cubes of fruit gel. Then, for the main event, my companion chose the passionfruit souffle with sour cream guava sorbet (and more artisanal olive oil); I, of course, desired some chocolate. The menu listed two chocolate desserts: chocolate chili and chocolate peanut butter. The latter brought me to new heights of ecstasy. Described as an assortment of "warm chocolate croneski, peanut butter chocolate, rice crispie croquant and fleur de sel caramel," it was an intense concoction which mixed sweet and salty, creamy and crunchy. Streams of warm chocolate flooded out of three globes of chocolate cake, mixed with small dots of caramel, and made their way over to a dense oval of creamy peanut butter and chocolate atop a layer of nuts and crisped rice. Before I knew it, my companion's fork had claimed half of the peanut butter chocolate. I didn't mind, however, because a plate of petits fours soon arrived. (I loved the pistachio financier, the passionfruit pate de fruit, and the mint-foam-topped key lime tart.) Also, there was a cigar box full of homemade truffles: coconut, Pedro Ximenez sherry, mint, espresso, and matcha. We were told that we could eat as many truffles as we wanted!

As if all of this weren't enough, we were plied with pretty bags of homemade macarons upon our departure. I haven't yet mustered up the appetite to try them, but I know they are no ordinary macarons. True to the adventurous nature of Gilt, one of them is topped with chili powder.

Gilt: 455 Madison Ave. at the New York Palace Hotel, (212) 891-8100.

Mitsuwa Marketplace

Mitsuwa Marketplace is a sort of Disneyland for those who love Japanese food and culture (but especially food). The food court/grocery/shopping complex used to be known as Yaohan, but after changing names and undergoing renovation, it's even more of a food destination than before. Although Mitsuwa is not technically in New York, it's just a $2.00, 30-minute ride from Port Authority's Gate 51. The shuttle operates about every 30 minutes.

I caught the 1 p.m. shuttle today. After being treated to a brief tour of how the other half of the Hudson lives, I was deposited in front of Utsuwa, Mitsuwa's gift shop. Within, I found chopsticks, an assortment of tableware similar to that of Chinatown's Pearl River Mart, tons of Hello Kitty kitsch, and some other tchotchkes. (I bought a couple of those lucky cats.)

It is often said that one should not go grocery shopping on an empty stomach. So, after browsing through the Sanseido bookstore, I walked over to Matsushima, the free-standing waterfront Japanese restaurant. Unfortunately, this decision turned out to be a mistake. Although the menu was extensive and the display of lunch specialts appealing, the grilled fish in my bento was as dry as toast. Perhaps I just ordered badly; the other patrons seemed to relish their meals. At any rate, the waterfront view was pleasant.

Full, if not satisfied, I finally entered the mecca that is Mitsuwa. Now there's where I should've eaten. Since renovation, the food options have multiplied. Today, happy and hungry customers bustled to and fro, taking stock of all the stations. Many crowded around Katsuhana, a stand which sold fried pork and shrimp lunches. There was also a line of people waiting for bowls of steaming udon at Sanuki-Sando-Udon. Ramen sets were available at Santoko. I also noticed the Italian Tomato (pasta) and St. Honore (pastry) stands (these were identical to the ones at JAS Mart).

My map must have been out of date, because it listed Chinese and Korean take-out counters. Instead, there were two other businesses: Iseya, which sold bubble tea, "pizza buns," and small sweet cakes (obviously fresh ones, because an old lady was waiting near the cash register asking, "Are they ready yet?") and a counter devoted to fried croquettes, sweet potato tempura, fried Japanese mackerel, spring rolls and whole purple squids.

Manhattan's Minamoto Kitchoan was represented; I bought one of their chocolate sponge cakes and some green tea maple syrup puddings. I then walked past the woman handing out hot gyoza and noticed Oishinbo, which sold the beloved taiyaki, or sweet red bean-stuffed waffles shaped like carp. But since the cakes were served hot off the iron, I decided to pick up a couple when I was finished grocery shopping. Satisfied that I'd sufficiently cased the place, I started exploring the grocery aisles.

The home appliances were all cordoned off, with a sign explaining that Bergen County's blue laws prohibit the sale of home appliances on Sundays. I found this truly odd! Fortunately, none of the food was off-limits. The produce section featured an impressive variety of root vegetables such as purple yams (on sale), taro, Japanese sweet potatoes, and super-long gobo. There must have been a million types of miso! Moving onto the fish and meat sections, I saw that sliced ribeye for shabu shabu was on sale, as well as yellowtail sashimi. There were spices, there were rices... I excitedly grabbed a jar of yuzu kosho, a spicy citrus pepper which I'd first tried at Ony.

Even the beverage selection was overwhelming! Sake, shochu, soju, plum wine, iced chicory barley pu-erh tea... I bought a small bottle of junmai ginjo, some Boss coffee, and a precious vial of highest quality green tea leaves.

Next it was on to the frozen food aisle. Although I was trying to avoid buying perishable items, I picked up a few frozen eels (both barbequed and non-barbequed). My other purchases were a bottle of seaweed/rice cracker seasoning for rice soup, prepared spicy squid legs, and sesame-seasoned broccoli rape. Oh, and close to the cashier I saw that some sea urchin rice crackers were on sale. How could I miss out on something so exotic-sounding?

Mitsuwa Marketplace: 595 River Rd., Edgewater, NJ, (201) 941-9113.

Sweets News

• Valentine's Day will be here before you know it, and if you're looking for a way to profess your undying devotion, you might consider sending your beloved a dozen Wicked Whoopies. These giant cookie sandwiches, stuffed to the limit with 8 different creamy fillings, are sending me into paroxysms of delight. Isamax Snacks: (877) 447-2629.
  
  
• I'm happy to say that I've recently started writing for Pastry Art & Design. (Under my real name, of course.) Look for my first article in February; it's about feuilletine and features recipes by 4 great pastry chefs.

The Burger-Of-The-Month Diet?

Browsing in Barnes & Noble today, I noticed the prominent diet book display, which was obviously marketed towards guilty holiday gorgers. The featured tomes all seemed to conflict with one another. One title implored me to eat more bread, another to eat more rice. Still another promised to erase my wrinkles as well as my weight. There was the Jerusalem diet, the Japanese diet and a diet that promised me that if I could acquire French citizenship, I would never get fat.

After leafing through a 5-Week Cure and a One-Day Approach, I threw up my hands and went home. When I turned on my computer, I was confronted with the following E-mail:

O’NEILL’S INTRODUCES ‘BREAK YOUR RESOLUTION BURGER’ FOR JANUARY

Burger and Beer Program Makes Great Gift for Your Favorite NYC Carnivore

When it comes to breaking New Year’s resolutions the motto is go big or go home. Whether you’ve already broken your resolution or you’re looking for the right time, New York’s O’Neill’s Irish Pub is offering up a “Break Your Resolution Burger” for January that won’t leave your taste buds with any regrets.

For just $10, guests can enjoy a juicy “Break Your Resolution Burger” loaded
with blue cheese, guacamole and bacon, served with French fries and a pint of
Smithwicks Irish Ale for lunch or dinner.

The January burger is part of O’Neill’s 2006 “Burger of the Month” program
which pairs a specialty burger and French fries with a pint of beer for lunch
or dinner..."

I suppose I should just give up now.

O’Neill’s: 729 3rd Ave., (212) 661-3530.

Out With The Old, In With The New... Appliances

Every so often, I'll develop an obsession with time-saving kitchen gadgets. As an outer-borough dweller who spends hours on the subway, I eat most of my meals in Manhattan, but I still fantasize about cooking at home.

Sometimes a fascination with one machine will lead to another. A few years ago, I brought a Tiger rice cooker home from Tokyo. I was amazed at its ability to make perfect rice in 30 minutes. But as I was browsing through Amazon.com, I noticed an intriguing new appliance: the Zojirushi NH-VBC18 10-Cup Rice Cooker and Warmer with Induction Heating System. I just had to have this new-fangled rice cooker; it makes soft, regular, hard, semi-brown, brown, sweet, and mixed rice. Unlike other rice cookers, it features an "extended-warm" button that keeps rice moist for days. You can even program it to have your rice ready for you when you arrive home or wake up. I like to get up and pretend I'm in Japan... I'll have a bowl of rice mixed with egg, soy sauce and natto.

But I usually just have a cup of coffee in the morning. Although I love my stovetop Bialetti cappuccino maker, my quest for convenience has led me to scope out other machines. The Saeco Vienna Deluxe used to be my favorite coffeemaker, but I soon grew tired of cleaning the grounds from the inside of the machine. Now I just press a button each morning for my Nespresso.

Last month, my 8-year-old Black & Decker toaster suddenly gave out. I soon learned how far toasters have advanced the last few years... they've merged with convection ovens! Krups even produces a model in which you can push a button for cookies, or thin pizza, or thick pizza... I purchased the slightly less feature-rich Krups FBC2 6-Slice Digital Convection Toaster Oven. It includes a non-stick bake pan and a broil tray.

My last purchase isn't a replacement, but rather a new gadget. This appliance might seem a bit frivolous (indeed, one Amazon reviewer wrote that she stands by it "even in the face of ridicule"), but I've found myself using it more than I expected. The Krups 230-70 Electric Egg Express Egg Cooker makes 7 hard-boiled or soft-boiled eggs, or 2 poached. (When boiling them the traditional way, I'd always forget about them and they'd crack.) Make some toast and you'll have an instant breakfast, or save the boiled eggs for your next Nicoise!

What's Better Than Le Bernardin?

Why, Le Bernardin by the pool in 80-degree weather, of course. Eric Ripert, the restaurant's celebrated chef, has brought his craft to bluer pastures with the opening of Blue and Periwinkle at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman. I'm reminiscing over my recent delicious experiences there on Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page.

Enoteca I Trulli

If you don't crave the fanfare of a multi-course meal, but rather a glass of wine and a light dish, NYC's wine bars were made for you. Every day it seems that another excellent restaurant has spun off a cozy, informal lounge. Al Di La Vino and Bar @ Etats Unis spring to mind, as does the lovely little Enoteca I Trulli.

For some reason, I've always found I Trulli to be on the ascetic side (you won't find four-cheese-anything there). Perhaps the cuisine of Apulia is characteristically light? I don't know, but after all my holiday indulgences, I thought I should (temporarily) practice moderation.

I sat down at a wooden table inscribed with various wine labels, although there were still seats at the bar. While sipping a glass of Montepulciano, I noticed that the menu was a somewhat abbreviated version of the one next door. The ravioli of the day was chicken and mushroom, but I decided on a simple bowl of chewy cavatelli. The flour dumplings were very lightly sauced with broccoli rape, garlic and olive oil; a few toasted almond slivers provided an interesting crunch. Almost no sauce remained once I was finished with the generous portion of pasta.

Naturally, I wanted to see the dessert menu. I opted for the lightest selection - the assortment of sorbets. (Of course, I had to bring an additional dessert home for the hungry companion. A dense, warm chocolate hazelnut cake was greatly appreciated.) The sorbet dessert featured three flavors: fruity quince, tangy pear and bracing, almost bitter (in a good way!) grapefruit. A sprig of mint, some grapefruit sections and a homemade cookie garnished the bowl. Next time, I intend to sample one of the intriguing wine/dessert pairings; various wines are matched with pecorino, sweet pasta and homemade biscotti.

Enoteca I Trulli: 122 East 27th St., (212) 481-7372.

BLT Fish

I thought that the transit strike would empty out the restaurants, but BLT Fish was as crowded as ever last night. My friends and I sat down a little before 10 p.m. We'd originally intended to eat at the downstairs BLT Fish Shack, but the menu from upstairs just spoke to us (as did the relative quietude).

Before our chosen selections, we were presented with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and finely minced apple with creme fraiche. We were then surprised by the deceptively humble cheddar-chive biscuits, which in my opinion, were one of the most memorable foods of the evening - moist, buttery and flaky all at once. I tore my steaming biscuit apart and slathered it with butter and maple syrup. As I think back on the amazing popovers at BLT Steak, I wonder if a BLT Bakery could be next for Tourondel.

The grilled Ecuadorian shrimp appetizer was sold out, so I ordered the spicy tuna tartare. It was similar to BLT Steak's rendition in that the square of tuna was served on a layer of avocado. However, it included a dollop of American caviar and was creamy with spicy mayonnaise. Its flavor did not include a hint of soy, but rather zesty lemon.

The menu, which features whole fish by the pound, included sea bass and Cantonese-style red snapper. But when I heard that only one Mediterranean loup de mer remained, I had to order it. My friends enjoyed the four plump grilled Maine sea scallops and the Alaskan king salmon steaks with tangy ginger ketchup and mild roasted garlic aioli. My own loup de mer arrived already filleted; although the fish was moist and rich-flavored, I prefer the spectacle of a whole fish. Not to mention, it fills the plate!

Our chosen sides were the Parmesan gnocchi, baked fennel, garlic mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and grilled asparagus. All were exceedingly rich! The asparagus was topped with thin slices of Parmesan, buttered bread crumbs decorated the fennel, and the gnocchi were half-an-inch deep in cream.

By now our stomachs were groaning. Naturally, I was the only one to order a dessert (the others were satisfied by the complimentary green apple cotton candy and petits fours). Deliberating between the lime millefeuilles and the caramelized meringue, I finally decided on the pumpkin tart. The accompanying ice cream provided an interesting cognitive dissonance; expecting a mouthful of cold ice cream, I was hit with a rush of hot spice. I would've loved to take home a pint of it! And it was only fitting that having begun my meal with a crunchy-topped tuna tartare, I would end it with a crunchy hazelnut-topped pumpkin tart.

Next stop, BLT Prime!

BLT Fish: 21 West 17th St., (212) 691-8888.

Gifts For The Gourmet

Are you still stumped for holiday gift ideas? Here's a present any foodie friend will appreciate: an international cooking class. The New School teaches everything from a "Roast Suckling Pig Workshop" to a "Paris Bistro Feast." But if your friend is more interested in dining out, the "BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE GREAT RESTAURANTS OF NEW YORK ™" series may be right up his alley. (Or, if his table manners are less than adequate, you might want to enroll him in "Dining Etiquette for Adults.")

A Regular's Lament

I was becoming increasingly devoted to the Japanese fusion cuisine of Komegashi (928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000). I loved the thick, rectangular slabs of grilled skewered fish and the unexpected flavors and textures in the maki. The Valrhona chocolate souffle accompanied by homemade maple, vanilla and orange-chocolate ice cream was a treat I looked forward to. And there was that "regular" treatment... when the waitress noticed that I'd left a piece of sushi untouched, she would ask the chef to prepare any fish I wanted to replace it.

So, you can imagine how disconcerted I was to learn that Komegashi will be no more after next week. The restaurant has been sold. Apparently, four out of five NYC restaurants close within five years. But I wonder, what is the reason for this particular failure? Were the guests expecting a more traditional Japanese cuisine? Were they put off by the beef jus/red wine/soy dipping sauce that was served with the skewered meats and fish, or did they not appreciate the sprinkling of sansho pepper atop the freshwater eel? It's true that the offerings were not inexpensive; a "foamed" miso soup with fried tofu was $6. But many New Yorkers willingly pay premium prices for quality Japanese food.

Presentation was certainly not the problem; nor was decor. So, I surmise that the location did Komegashi in. Just one block east, Park Avenue South teems with crowded restaurants; I couldn't even get a seat at Haru tonight. But there aren't many places to dine on Broadway in the lower 20s. Komegashi was the only restaurant on its block. Adding to this problem was the fact that Komegashi's building was landmarked, so there were heavy restrictions on signage. Many people walked by the door without even realizing that there was a restaurant inside. (Slightly south of Komegashi, the still-popular Craftbar features a prominent sign.)

I wish the new owners better luck, but I'll miss Komegashi. I may even stop by next week to enjoy my "regular" status for the last time.

Heirloom (Closed as of 4/06)

Pure Food And Wine owner Matthew Kenney has added another establishment to his rapidly expanding vegetarian empire: Heirloom. Open just a week, Heirloom already seems to have its formula down pat. The servers are knowledgeable and friendly, the semicircle banquettes are comfy, and the food is artfully presented and sometimes startling in its creativity.

The restaurant is upscale, but it aims to comfort. Tonight, my companion and I were delighted to receive a complimentary basket of jalapeno hush puppies. Although I would have liked a bit more jalapeno, I did get the requisite kick from the accompanying spicy creme fraiche. (There was also a maple mustard butter.)

Although the portobello "foie gras" appetizer sounded appealing, I decided on the carrot soup. A spiral of creme fraiche, a hint of chive oil and a few chewy carrot dumplings had me tilting the bowl to collect the last few drops of soup. But I was especially enthralled with my companion's "tempura sushi." Gossamer slices of persimmon, artichoke and chayote were colorful stand-ins for sushi fish, and tempura haricot verts provided some crunch in the maki.

I enjoyed my entree, but my heart belonged to my companion's "seafood trio." This assortment of trumpet royale and bluefoot mushrooms was disguised as seared scallops, fried calamari and grilled fluke, which were served on a bed of garlicky sauteed spinach. The scallops in particular were eerily authentic. I ordered the moqueca, which is a Brazilian shrimp stew usually served with rice. Heirloom's veggie interpretation showcased delicious chunks of flash-fried housemade tofu, but excluded the rice; I missed it. (The accompanying banana pepper empanadas were a nice touch.)

My dessert was an impressive, cocoa-dusted tableau of chocolate-syrup-drenched black cocoa cake, espresso ice cream and crunchy roasted coffee bean bark. A layer of sweet chestnut spread inside the cake balanced the strong chocolate and coffee flavors. My companion ordered the raisin-studded, white-chocolate-iced spice cake. (I ate all of the caramelized walnuts on the side.) And in the interest of providing the most comprehensive review possible, I also tried the chocolate parfait, which was really a nut-sprinkled chocolate mousse atop some jelled grapes... I suppose I'm more accustomed to a cake foundation, but you'll never catch me complaining about chocolate.

Heirloom: 191 Orchard St., (212) 228-9888.

An Early Christmas Present

Yesterday threatened to elapse without one moment of deliciousness. But when I threw open the door, ready to collapse onto the couch, I noticed a mysterious package. That's funny, I thought; I hadn't ordered anything online in quite a while.

Upon closer inspection, the package appeared to be a gift, and indeed it was. A good friend (who is the proud keeper of a very enthusiastic dog) had sent me a box which contained the most amazing artisanal gingersnaps. Large chunks of sugarcoated candied ginger rendered these cookies absolutely irresistible. After downing one, I found myself reaching for another, even though they were huge. Then, I happily tumbled into bed and had sweet dreams.

Michel Cluizel Chocolat (THIS STORE CLOSED IN 2008)

Please pardon my recent lapse in posting; I've been busy consuming my own weight in chocolate. The opening of Michel Cluizel Chocolat is both a blessing and a curse, because my attempt to save room for dessert is now an attempt to save all room for dessert.

Ever since I first discovered the inconceivably chocolatey Grand Lait bar, I've been an unabashed devotee of Michel Cluizel chocolates. With a 45% cocoa content, this very special bar combines the deep complexity of dark chocolate with the richness of dairy. This is just one of the many treats at Cluizel's one-month-old cafe.

Michel Cluizel Chocolat is unapologetically adult-oriented. (Indeed, one of the guided chocolate tastings is marked "ADULTS ONLY.") There are several different "choctails" including a Chocolate Russian, and you can order assorted liqueurs in chocolate bonbon cups. This atmosphere, and the comfortable banquettes, create an aura of romance around the room. Today, one couple sitting next to me fed each other chocolate fondue. (My companion, regrettably, is on a diet.)

I didn't quite have the stamina for a 50-minute chocolate tasting, so I opted for one of the desserts. The menu included the afore-mentioned fondue accompanied by churros (perhaps taking a page from nearby Pipa's book), frozen white chocolate Chantilly, chocolate mousse, old-fashioned buttercream-frosted icebox cake, dark chocolate crullers, and chocolate-chestnut "decadent" framboise. I don't believe I've ever seen the word decadent used as a noun; I'll have to adopt this usage. Or, at the very least, I'd like to adopt the habit of eating this particular dessert on a daily basis. The tartness of the raspberry coulis was a perfect foil for a creamy dome of divinely rich chocolate-chestnut mousse. I also enjoyed a cup of Moka D'Oro coffee blended with Michel Cluizel hot chocolate mix.

Of course, I had to take a walk around the center display full of chocolate. I noticed that, like La Maison Du Chocolat, Michel Cluizel offers bouchees. These bonbons on steroids are offered in quite intriguing flavors; I chose the plum marmalade. I also bought some salted butter "Guerande" caramels and a 16-piece ballotin. I guess I just won't have room for dinner tonight!

Michel Cluizel Chocolat: 888 Broadway (inside ABC Carpet & Home), 646-602-3262.

A Mug Of Hot Tea

There's nothing more soothing to the winter-weary than a mug of tea. Today I ventured over to the new Roebling Tea Room in Williamsburg (143 Roebling, St., Brooklyn, 718-963-0760), where I found a very imaginative tea menu. Among the impressive variety of green, rooibos, white, black, herbal and mate teas were such intriguing blends as "green coconut cream" (coconut chips and green tea). I tried the cocoa nib black tea, and accompanied it with an excellent chocolate croissant. Roebling's "comestibles" menu is also appealing; there are pulled pork sandwiches, various salads, duck pate with cornichons, and baked brie. On the weekends there's a "tea brunch" with your choice of different items such as an egg and gruyere sandwich. For those of you who can't make up your mind between tea and coffee, there is the "Black Eye Chai" (chai and espresso). (Of course, this may defeat the relaxing purpose of tea.)

In Manhattan, a former antique shop now houses a Chinese tearoom: The Tea Gallery (131 Allen St., 212- 777-6148). Besides offering a high-quality selection of red, white, green and oolong teas, the Tea Gallery provides tastings and classes.

A recent (and exquisite) 8-course dinner at Ito-En's Kai (822 Madison, 212-988-7277) featured sencha and hojicha. (However, the portions were doll-sized, and I was so hungry afterwards that I was forced to order an additional dessert.) Craving the grassy sencha, I returned to the Ito En store to learn all kinds of valuable tidbits about the teamaking process. Apparently, the water must not be too hot, and should first be poured into teacups (or a special cooling cup) for cooling. The water and tea are then added to a kyusu, or teapot, which ideally should contain a porous surface to absorb the flavor of the tea. (Repeated use "seasons" the teapot.) I am now ready for some tea-making experiments of my own!

The Chocolate Show 2005

New Yorkers' passion for chocolate has apparently grown to such an extent that it can no longer be contained by just one building. The Chocolate Show 2005, traditionally held on the first floor of the Metropolitan Pavilion, has now swallowed up the adjacent Altman Building. So there's even more chocolate to explore!

Upon entering the show today, I was greeted by the Schokinag truck. Smiling women were serving both triple chocolate and mint cocoa. (Schokinag's Website is "drinkyourchocolate.com". Somehow I doubt that any parents have to admonish their children to do this.)

I'm always totally overwhelmed by the sheer expanse of chocolate in the large Metropolitan Pavilion, so I began my journey in the Altman Building. (I was still totally overwhelmed.) I admired the chocolate rendition of the Mona Lisa. Payard and J. Emanuel provided truffle samples nearby. The latter exhibitor, which featured Shiraz and Zinfandel truffles, was strategically placed next to the 21-and-over Chocolate Lounge. I walked over to one of my favorite chocolatiers, Michel Cluizel, and was delighted to learn that they're opening a new chocolate boutique today at ABC Carpet & Home! (Once I recover from this intense chocolate high, I will have to run over there.) I came away with a bag of 65% cacao Mangaro Noir and 50% Mangaro Lait squares.

Past the chocolate streetlight and "Broadway" sign was the Chocolat Weiss stand. Chocolat Weiss has existed since the early 1880s, but has developed an American presence in the last 4 years. They pride themselves on being the "authentic chocolate-maker of French gastronomy." (This sounded good to me, so I purchased a bag of their 85% cacao squares.) Then it was time for fudge brownie samples at San Francisco's Recchiuti.

Although the Altman basement was billed as housing a "chocolate spa," the spa was really just an aggregation of those ubiquitous $5 masseurs, albeit with the addition of an airborne chocolate aroma. I resolved to conquer the immense Metropolitan Building.

At the entrance were Gustaux from France and Belgian Belcolade, as well as another Schokinag location. I was immediately drawn to the Divalicious chocolate fountain, where I happily enjoyed milk-chocolate-dipped bananas. Divalicious will be opening a cafe in Nolita at the end of the month.

Moving along, I sampled the award-winning Maracaibo of Felchlin, the miraculous little chocolate-coated walnut brownies of Vere, and some Java milk from Chocolove (rather too sweet, I thought). I experienced chocolate in its deepest, richest form at the exhibit of Sweet Riot, a 6-week-old Chelsea store. (Sweet Riot offers pure cocoa nibs in different strengths. Whoa!)

I noticed two trends in chocolate this year: the altruistic and the crunchy. In the first category were New Tree, which sold "FORGIVENESS" bars (which is what I will later have to ask of my stomach), and the Chocolate Bar, which was attempting to save CBGB's.

Crunch seemed to be a factor in several chocolate items, from the chocolate-covered cornflakes at Knipschildt and Jacques Torres to the exquisite chocolate-coated feuilletine of Love In Disguise.

After snagging a Fairytale Brownie, a coupon from Peanut Butter & Co. and a green-tea truffle from Tokyo-based Mary's Chocolatier, I knew I had to stagger home. But on my way out, I couldn't resist passing by the hot cocoa stand again. A woman was asking what kind of cocoa was being served. Upon hearing that it was triple chocolate, she said, "Well, we have to get in as many antioxidants as we can." A worthy goal, I'm sure.

The Chocolate Show 2005: 125 West 18th St. Open through Sunday.

A "European Chocolate Culinary Adventure"

Now I know how we're celebrating our anniversary...

According to Culinary Travel Adventures, the head chocolatier from Vosges is joining Silverseas Luxury Cruise for a special voyage from September 13-23, 2006. The chocolatey cruise will visit Stockholm, London, Denmark, the Netherlands, Poland, Germany and Norway. Chocolate-related excursions will abound! Onboard, there will be chocolate-making classes.

For more information, call Cindy at (847) 272-2894.

Long Island City - A Cafe Crawl

If you take the 7 train just one stop into Queens, you'll be transported into Long Island City's budding shopping district. This area resembles a quaint old village that was inexplicably planted right next to a bustling metropolis. At night, its narrow streets and diminutive brick buildings are eerily illuminated by the skyscrapers of Manhattan. The Chrysler Building looks close enough to touch.

L.I.C., which is emerging from its industrial roots, has recently become home to a confluence of cafes. Each has a quite distinct character. (Starbucksification has not yet arrived in this neighborhood.)

Right across from the Vernon-Jackson subway station is TEN63 (1063 Jackson Ave., 718-482-7679). Unfortunately, I've been told that this spacious cafe will soon be demolished to make way for the construction of a luxury condo. I'm sure the locals will miss the excellent homemade hot chocolate and egg sandwiches. I ordered the avocado/cotija cheese/black bean sandwich, and although I must opine that unpureed beans don't belong in a sandwich, the bread was terrific.

I took a right on 50th Avenue and walked past Cafe Henri (1010 50th Ave., 718-383-9315). The menu was an appetizing list of crepes and croques monsieurs. (Cafe Henri is related to the popular bistro Le Gamin.) Live jazz is featured on Thursdays and Saturdays from 8-11 p.m.

I then settled in at Brasil Coffee House. The owners of this cafe are so obsessed with coffee production that they've filled the tables with coffee beans and painted an agricultural mural on the wall. (They are also ardent advocates of coffee's supposed health benefits.) I had no idea what I was ordering when I asked for the "BCM Media," but apparently it was one of the strongest drinks on the menu. It must have stimulated my appetite, because I also consumed a hot coconut muffin and a chewy Brazilian cheese bread (pao de queijo).

After this caffeinated experience, I needed to decompress at Communitea (47-02 Vernon Blvd., 718-729-7708). At this comfy tea shop, the menu is scrawled on the back wall, and the chairs look like they were lifted from the local schoolhouse. Communitea truly has something for everyone; both beef and tofu hot dogs are available in organic white or whole wheat buns. I enjoyed a cup of freshly brewed sencha. All categories of tea are offered: black, green, oolong, white, flavored and herbal. The service is friendly and warm.

(On my way back to the subway, I caught sight of a sign that said "Cafe." Apparently this was the now-closed, much-missed L.I.C. Cafe. Fortunately for food-lovers, the owner is now operating a catering shop in the space, and he'll soon open a cooking school called Peter's Pans. 5-48 49th Ave., 718-752-0282.)

Cube 63 (Brooklyn)

Are you one of those people who, after ordering the sushi combination, invariably sighs, "Where's the good stuff?" You are always bemoaning the lack of eel and the scarcity of yellowtail. Here's a solution for you: the Cube 63 special. At just $20, it contains only salmon, yellowtail, eel and tuna. So you won't have to order the more expensive a la carte, but neither will you have to pick through the egg and the dreaded crab stick! (I actually quite like the egg, myself.)

It seems that every day a Manhattan restaurant opens a new location in trendy Brooklyn. Cube 63 happens to be the third restaurant that I've experienced in Brooklyn before Manhattan (the other two are Blue Ribbon Sushi and Brooklyn Fish Camp). I'm so glad I did. The complimentary spicy tuna amuse-bouche won me over before I'd even ordered. (How often do you go to a sushi bar and receive 4 free pieces of sushi?)

My friend began with the vegetable gyoza. I thought they needed some ginger or white pepper, but I enjoyed my "Puerto Rico" maki (what on earth is this, you ask?): lobster salad and tempura eel in thinly sliced cucumber cups. For the more authentically-inclined, Cube 63 does have a sizable nigirizushi menu which includes delights like Spanish mackerel and sea eel.

Upon receiving her a la carte selection, my friend exclaimed, "Such tender fish!" And indeed it was, slippery and silky on the tongue. I was originally going to order the omakase, but my Puerto Rico roll had somewhat filled me up and I went with the Cube 63 special. (I'm one of those who greatly appreciates the presence of eel!) There were eight pieces of sushi and a delicious spicy tuna roll with a sweet miso coulis.

I really don't know why we ordered dessert after this, because I was about to burst, and my friend doesn't have much of a sweet tooth. But we did order some green-tea ice cream, both plain and in a chewy mochi preparation.

On a side note, I am always amazed by the constant transformation of Cobble Hill, and to a lesser extent, Park Slope. I'm starting to lose count of how many restaurants have opened on Smith Street since I moved out of the borough!

Cube 63 Brooklyn: 234 Court St., (718) 243-2208.

A Fall Afternoon In Cold Spring

The quaint town of Cold Spring is awash in freshly baked goods! Although NYC is home to several superlative bakeries, there's something about the backdrop of bright autumn leaves that lends extra flavor to a hot muffin. (That't not to say that I don't enjoy my fougasse in the concrete jungle, of course.)

Cold Spring, which boasts a spectacular view of the Hudson River, is just an hour and 15 minutes from the city. The train from Grand Central will deposit you right into the thick of things, and you may want to start your tour with a trip to Provincial Home (80 Main St., 845-265-5360). The European ceramics store offers a wide variety of jams which you'll want to spread on all the baked goods you're soon to enjoy. Sweet jams include red papaya grapefruit and savories include roasted red pepper.

Next, walk over to The Foundry Cafe (55 Main St., 845-265-4504). There, you'll find a changing assortment of cheesecakes (rated "orgasmic" by Hudson Valley Magazine), crumbles (today, it was apple peach blueberry cranberry), muffins and pies. Brownies come both with walnuts and without. (The Foundry is also wonderful in the omelette department... have one with ham and Swiss or pesto and tomato.) Sugar-dusted multi-grain pancakes are served on Saturdays and Sundays only.

The apple cake at the Pig Hill Inn (73 Main St., 845-265-9347) is for guests only, but you might consider lodging there just to be able to feast on it! The Pig Hill Inn is renowned for its excellent breakfast.

Walking further down Main Street, you will notice fresh cheesecakes and pecan pies at the Cold Spring Cafe (129 Main St., 845-265-9471). But wait, there's more! If you take a right on Chestnut Street, you'll soon find a beloved shrine for baked goods aficionados: The Main Course. This small catering company bakes raspberry muffins, biscotti, almond pound cake, chocolate-chip cookies and much more! (I also could not resist their caramelized butternut squash and spinach-watercress vichysoisse.) Pick up one of their excellent packaged salads for the trip home; you might especially enjoy the grilled chicken Caesar or the mesclun with Montrachet.

Since the weather was warm until recently, the leaves in Cold Spring are only changing just now. So there's still time to enjoy the beautiful fall colors!

Breakfast Envy at Thomas Beisl

Have you ever coveted your neighbor's plate? This morning at Thomas Beisl, I looked longingly at my friend's breakfast. Ironically, I had suggested that she order that particular selection: the brioche French toast. Three-inch-thick slices of eggy brioche were snowed under with confectioners sugar, thickly spread with homemade apricot jam and festooned with caramelized bananas. The whole glorious mess was accompanied by real maple syrup and creme fraiche.

(My friend didn't care much for the creme fraiche, but as she gleefully poured on the syrup, she regaled me with stories from her New England childhood. Apparently she used to tap maple trees and enjoy wintertime "maple snow." Her mother would heat up the maple syrup and pour it over a handful of freshly fallen backyard snow.)

I had ordered the intriguing-sounding souffled pancakes with fruit compote and raisins. But although I enjoyed the stewed plums in the compote, the pancakes were more like pieces of heavy fried dough with none of the airiness of a souffled preparation. Fortunately, my friend was generous with her French toast, and I believe I will order it the next time we meet for brunch. (I later consoled myself with a fresh-out-the-oven wild blueberry muffin at Blue Sky Bakery.)

Thomas Beisl: 25 Lafayette Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 222-5800.

The Heavenly Japanese Sweet Potato

The Japanese sweet potato, which is harvested in fall, always fills me with indescribable delight. Sweeter than the American version, it has red skin and delicious yellow flesh. When I was in Tokyo, I used to gorge on cubes of fresh sweet potato fudge, but I also like the potato as it was prepared this evening at Soba Ya: steamed and sliced thickly, sprinkled with crunchy black sesame seeds and drizzled with sugar syrup. Yum!

Soba-Ya: 229 East 9th St., (212) 533-6966.

Sweets News

Despite the tropical weather, cool temperatures are fast approaching. In fact, I believe that this weekend will bring our first taste of fall. That's why I was excited to learn that The Chocolate Room is once again offering its beloved bittersweet hot chocolate. I look forward to some cozy (and chocolatey) autumn afternoons!

But if the prospect of a mug of hot chocolate isn't enough incentive for you to visit this Park Slope cafe, chew on this: Fritz Knipchildt himself will be teaching a truffle-making class on Monday, October 17th from 7-8:30 p.m.! Call (718) 783-2900 for more information.

718 Restaurant

Although those hip "718" logo T-shirts refer to the borough of Brooklyn, I'd be happy to wear one as an advertisement for this French bistro in Astoria. Yesterday, my companion and I trekked over there for a delicious lunch.

I hope we don't begin make a habit of this, but we ordered the same entree: the "lovely" tuna sandwich (lovely, indeed!). The sandwiches consisted of seared medium-rare tuna steaks, which were outwardly crisp and inwardly pink, and paper-thin mango slices on lightly toasted rolls. (There was none of the advertised avocado, but the spicy mayonnaise added enough oomph to preclude its necessity.) Our inner children were delighted by the large cones of well-salted, impeccably-fried potatoes, and we sneaked in a bit of virtue by munching on the mesclun salad.

My companion and I are beginning to realize that Forest Hills has been a culinary disappointment, aside from Nick's Pizza, Cheese of the World, and Thai Pot. Therefore, we may decide to move in the direction of 718!

718: 35-01 Ditmars Blvd., Astoria, (718) 204-5553.

Lunch At Komegashi (Closed after 2005)

Did you know about the lunch special at Komegashi? For $13.50, you get a cup of miso soup sweet with daikon radish, a refreshing mesclun salad, a maki of the day (today, yellowtail scallion) and three skewers of the grilled meat or fish of your choice. Komegashi, a Japanese fusion spot known for its inventive dishes (steak frites maki, anyone?) really shines in the grill department. My salmon, yellowtail and yellowfin tuna were tasty and tender, and the accompanying olive-anchovy tapenade was addictive. (Other available skewers include ribeye, duck, and asparagus.)

Komegashi: 928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000.

Osteria Del Sole (Closed as of March 2008)

The name of this osteria refers to the sunny regions of Italy which inform the cuisine featured here, but it could just as well describe the warm and friendly service. The host and waitstaff were so pleasant last night that my friend and I were happy to wait for over a half-hour in the bustling space. We sat down a little after 10:30 p.m.

Luca, our Florentine waiter, endured our sad attempts at communicating in Italian, and soon brought out rosemary flatbreads with a spicy tomato emulsion, an appetizer of three dollops of buffalo mozzarella interspersed with ripe red and yellow tomatoes and marinated peppers, and a grilled portobello mushroom "tower" in tomato sauce. We were already quite satisfied without having yet eaten the main meal.

Then a bowl of breadcrumb-topped spaghettini arrived, with saltiness provided by the dried mullet roe - arugula and tomatoes provided a vegetal touch. A fusilli tossed with black olives and capers arrived with several giant heads-on shrimp (only $13.95). By this time it was almost midnight and I decided to forgo dessert, but my friend happily devoured a frozen peach stuffed with creamy peach sorbet.

We said goodbye to charming Luca and it was time to compete for a cab.

Osteria del Sole: 267 West 4th St., (212) 620-6840.

Salli Vates Gets Married

My companion and I decided that we would like to share a lifetime of delicious meals. It was only fitting that we start our new lives together with some of the tastiest food imaginable. If any of you are planning a wedding, I cannot recommend Standing Room Only Caterers highly enough; our guests were oohing and aahing all the way from the pre-ceremony orange iced tea to the final course.

I must also let you know that it was no easy feat rescuing the top layer of Sarabeth's yellow genoise chocolate-espresso-marmalade truffle-filled wedding cake. And I hope we still have a few of the Vosges cherry kirsch and macadamia nut-coconut chocolate truffle favors.

You might ask, how did I know when to get married? I think it was when I could predict with accuracy which foods would mysteriously disappear from my refrigerator when my companion was visiting.

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The Menu

Orange Iced Tea
Mango Mojitos

Summer Vegetables
Tuna Tartare with Wasabi Aioli on a Grilled Tortilla Triangle
Breast of Duck with Candied Kumquats on a Sweet Potato Gaufrite
Aged Ricotta Bruschetta
Cashew-Encrusted Chicken with Citrus Marmalade
Honey and Cilantro Cured Salmon on a Tiny Corn Pancake with Mango and Papaya Salsa
“Scrambled” Eggs topped with Shaved Truffles in a Phyllo Cup
Tiny Buckwheat Blini with Crème Fraiche and Caviar
Hoisin Beef Skewers with Hoisin Ginger Dipping Sauce

Assorted Nigiri-Zushi
Steamed Edamame with Rock Salt
Warm Paper-thin Crepe with Chicken, Hoisin Sauce, Homemade Plum Sauce, Shredded Napa Cabbage and Toasted Sesame Seed
Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche with Avocado and Diced Tomato in a Lime Vinaigrette
Wild Mushroom and Butternut Squash Empanadas
Crab Cakes With a Warm Cilantro Vinaigrette
Fresh Figs with Honey Herbed Chevre in a Balsamic Reduction
Crispy Baby Artichokes

Mixed Green Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette and Spring Rolls
Tenderloin of Beef with Potato Napoleon, Sauteed Spinach in Garlic and Olive Oil
Sauce of Oven Roasted Red and Yellow Tomatoes in a Red Wine Reduction
Pan Sauteed Sea Bass with Roasted Corn, Zucchini, Diced Tomatoes, Chanterelles, White Beans on a bed of Basmati Rice, Seasoned Haricots Verts

Tiny Sorbet in the shape of fruits and berries
Wedding Cake sprinkled with Powdered Sugar or Cocoa, Drizzled with Raspberry Puree
Linzer Heart Cookies
Iced Cappuccino with Rock Candy Swizzle Sticks

Chocolate Fountain with Large Driscoll Strawberries, Pretzels, Marshmallows, Biscotti, and Dried Fruit